We passed our 2nd rough-in inspection!! Day 35..

I have been forsaking blogging for getting work done on the kitchen. I have to admit that much of the past week has been grueling and frustrating. But the payoff is worth it. Yesterday we had our second rough-in electrical inspection and this time we passed!!
Passed electrical inspection!

So exactly what have I been up to to get ready for the inspection? Let me show you.

I installed the ceiling boxes, that will hold our lights. This picture was taken yesterday evening, after I got the passing grade. I was anxious to get a light back in the room. Working with just the light from the dining room at night sucked.
Ceiling boxes

Above that blue box, in our attic, this is what it looks like.
Celing box from above
The metal bar that goes between the ceiling joists slides and retracts for different joist spacings. Unfortunately some of my joists are less than the standard 16″ on center. And that is the smallest those particular ceiling boxes go. So I had to cut one to get it to fit.

Adding to my frustration with the ceiling boxes is the fan box. I had already installed a ceiling fan brace in the kitchen for the white fan and was just going to move it. It is like that blue one above except all metal and the bar is much beefier.

Ceiling Fan Brace

Ceiling Fan Brace from Raco


Again the joist spacing was less than the standard 16″. Because of the way the brace is I couldn’t cut it. So I went to the store and got a different type of box. I would use a leftover piece of 2×3 to go between the joists. Sounds simple right? Well it would have been if one of the joists was not tilted on it’s side! Measured at the top the two joists were 3/4″ closer than at the bottom! This is on the extension part of the house. So I had to cut the lumber on an angle, otherwise I couldn’t get it to fit. And this took a few tries to get the length right.
Fan support

After that it was time to build my bulkhead and deal with the wiring that goes in the cubby near the stairs. The bulkhead was necessary to hide and protect the wiring in this area.
Bulkhead

The wire that goes all the way across is for the basement lights. The switch for them is on the opposite side of the wall to the left. The wire that is on the right is for our upstairs bedroom light. There is a switch at the bottom of the stairwell, on the opposite side of the wall to the right. This turned out to be a pain to rewire because of obstructions, bracing, etc. It took me the better part of one day just to deal with that and the other end of the switch on the second floor. And you can’t see it but the wiring for our 3-way controlling the kitchen lights is up there too. The new switch is next to the one for the basement.

The bulkhead was also providing a second function. In this cubby we will be placing an 88″ high pantry cabinet or high cabinet as they are called by Ikea. They advertise that the cabinet is 88″ tall but that is without feet! You need feet or you need to build a structure under the cabinet otherwise the door will be on the floor and it won’t open. In my mind they should be advertising the cabinets as 92″ or 93″. Don’t get caught by this if planning your kitchen!

Our ceilings are 8′-1″ high, or 97″. So 97 minus 88 gives 9 inches of room. That is how much room I thought I would have above this cabinet. To small to do anything with but too big to just leave. The Ikea cabinet legs are 4.375″ stock but they adjust all the way down to 3.5″. I figured we would adjust them down to 4″ even. That brings the height of the bulkhead down to 5″. Just big enough to serve it’s function.

I got the raceway for the fridge all in place.
Raceway for Fridge

And I finished the in wall wiring for the LED lights. Because the voltage and watts of these lights are so low they don’t use regular Romex wiring. The inspector required that the wiring be Class 2 and the LED vendor said I should use 18 gauge. So here is that combo. you can find this at Lowes marked as 18/2 Thermostat Wire. I’m sure Home Depot has something similar.
18/2 Class 2 Wire

One of these small wires goes down into the basement where the voltage transformer will be located.
Ready for LED voltage transformer
120V-AC rides in on the thick white wire and 12V-DC will ride out on the small one. The voltage transformer will be connected to the 120V supply in that rectangular metal box.

That pretty much closes out the electrical stuff for now, so we can move on to plumbing.

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