Plumbing an Ikea Domsjo 36″ Double Sink

Prior to installing our Ikea Domsjo 36″ double sink I searched, on Google and Ikea Fans, for what I would need to buy to plumb up this sink (the drain portion). There really wasn’t much in the way of answers. Apparently a lot of people did not plumb the sink themselves. Although I installed the plumbing last Saturday and Sunday I wasn’t happy with it. There was a lot of wasted space underneath and I knew I could do better. It was just a matter of finding the correct parts.

I should mention that Monday and Tuesday this past week I had to fix some small leaks in the plumbing under the sink. Monday we discovered it was leaking where the plumbing hooks to the strainer. This is because the tailpiece (that’s the official name for this part) with the dishwasher connection on it was supposed to have a gasket with it. It didn’t come with it. For the other tailpiece I guess you are supposed to buy a separate gasket. How stupid is that? The other leak was because I missed gluing two pieces of PVC together. It was the one all the way in the back. Oops!

So this is was take one. Notice how low the horizontal pipe that connects two sink outlets together is.

Drain plumbing take one

Drain plumbing take one

Now before I continue I want to share what I learned about kitchen drain piping. There are two ways to connect the drain piping to the sink strainer; slip joint and direct connection. The strainers that come with the Domsjo are the direct connect type. The slip joint is more popular though. There is the first challenge. To confuse you further the company that Home Depot carries calls the direct connection Hi-Line instead.

The last challenge with this sink is that all of the kits available for double sinks are for center-to-center distances of 11″ or greater. If the outlets in the Domsjo double were in the center of the bowl the center-to-center would be greater than 11″. But the outlets are more towards the middle of the sink and the center-to-center is approximately 10.5″.

So here is what I bought.

Parts needed

Parts needed


Closeup of sink kit

Closeup of sink kit

You will notice the kit package says 16″. We will deal with that in a minute. The part to the left is a branch tailpiece with slip joint and 3/4″ branch. The 3/4″ hose barb is where the dishwasher drain hose connects. Some dishwashers have a 5/8″ hose. Make sure you buy the correct size for your make and model. There is another kit that has the dishwasher connection built in. We can’t use this however, because of where the threads that connect the two parts are. Also make sure you get the direct connect version and not the slip joint one. But yes the branch tailpiece is a slip joint.

Once you take the parts out of the kit and fit them up you will see that it is indeed too long.

Drain kit is too long

Drain kit is too long


The solution is to simply cut it! When you cut it make sure you leave it long enough to fit well inside the slip joint. A hack saw will do. I tend to cut crooked when I use a hack saw so I used a saw I bought especially for PVC pipe and a miter box. Saw blades with course teeth are better than fine tooth ones when cutting plastic.

When you reinstall don’t forget the gaskets.

Don't forget the flange gaskets

Don't forget the flange gaskets


Also don’t forget the slip joint gasket and nut.
Don't forget slip joint gasket and nut

Don't forget slip joint gasket and nut


This is what it should look like when you are done.
Continuous drain kit installed

Continuous drain kit installed

If you don’t have a dishwasher you can hook your trap right to the outlet. To connect the dishwasher we need to add the branch tailpiece.

Branch tailpiece in place

Branch tailpiece in place

I will mention that I cut both the “tee” part of the continuous drain kit and the branch tailpiece. You may also need to cut yours depending on height of your trap. I wanted to make sure that the slip joint connection between the branch tailpiece and trap was above the waterline of the trap. I cut 1/2″ from the tee part and 2″ from the branch tailpiece. The part that is slid over the branch tailpiece is called a trap adapter. All I needed to do to complete the installation was cut and glue in piece of 1.5″ PVC pipe between the trap and adapter.

Putting on purple primer

Putting on purple primer


Putting on PVC glue

Putting on PVC glue


Drain piping installed

Drain piping installed

Isn’t that better? Now we have a lot more room underneath the sink for all those cleaning products and supplies. You could even fit two 8 gallon trash cans under there if you wanted to.

As a side note, we’re probably a minority but we decided NOT to use a garbage disposal. Irene finds them really gross, a pain to keep clean and they can be smelly. There is also a lot of evidence that it is bad for the environment and taxing our water treatment centers (pun not intended but we pay more in the end). Some parts of our country have banned them all together and others are offering a food composting program. We are trying to compost as much as we can, which is difficult and not convenient. I hope with the recent news that our Township/Town wants to be more ‘green’ that a program comes to us soon.

Update:
PS. We’ve been getting a lot of hits lately about the thickness of the countertop. Ikea says it needs 1.5″ or 3.81cm for the Domsjo. This is to clear the doors and prevent the sink from wobbling. Common stone thickness, regardless if it’s engineered or from the earth, is 2cm (mostly out west in earthquake zones) and 3cm for the rest of us. Unless you are ordering a custom slab, you will only find one or the other size in your region. Our quartz is 3cm or 1 1/4″ thick. We had no problems clearing our doors nor do we have a wobbly sink. We also should note we ordered these countertops from Ikea, and the Kitchen Manager said it wasn’t a problem. If you live out west and can only get 2cm you’ll need a plywood backing anyway for support of the stone, And be sure the countertop company knows you require atleast 1 1/4″ for your sink if they are not familiar with the Domsjo. Here is an ikeafans 2009 post on the subject. If you are using plywood backing or ordered a super thin slab, you may need to poney up more money to get what you need, hacking doors is NOT a lot of fun.

PSS – the ikea website SUCKS, stinks, etc. It is hardly updated so while it may say the domsjo isn’t there or not available, always call your local store for availability.

This entry was posted in Appliances, Plumbing and tagged , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

16 Responses to Plumbing an Ikea Domsjo 36″ Double Sink

  1. Greg Zeck says:

    Good job. Looks great!

    When I connected an Ikea bathroom sink last year, I had a big puzzle. What size supply tubes were these Ikea-supplied parts? Not the standard US size. A friend helped me solve with the connections pictured here: <a href=https://picasaweb.google.com/115265029093727204880/Mar302011#>

  2. Mark says:

    Hi Folks,

    Great post, this is going to come in handy real soon. We’re in the middle of building and are about to order our kitchen from Ikea. One quick question, if you don’t mind…

    What are the internal dimensions of the two bowls? I can’t find reference to the individual bowl dimensions anywhere. Would you mind measuring them?

    Cheers, Mark.

  3. Paul says:

    Hi Mark, Thanks for the compliments. Measured at the bottom each sink is 14.5″ x 16″ x 7″ deep.

  4. sharon says:

    Hey, we’re installing an ikea bathroom sink right now and we’re having problems with the plumbing. The pipe that came with it juts directly out to the side. We would love to know where you got those grey funnel shaped connectors that are directly under the sink they you then screwed the pipe into. Were they from ikea too? I can’t seem to find them and we need something just like that for our plumbing. Thanks!

  5. Paul says:

    Yes the gray things came from Ikea with the sink and everything else. The sales people probably added them to the order for us. Looking around the Ikea website they are the ATLANT. http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/90056021/ Too big for a bath sink though. It seems Ikea only sells the bath strainer bundled with a faucet. :-( I’d try something like this stopper from Lowes. I’m sure Home Depot has something similar.

  6. sharon says:

    Thanks so much! We need a working sink in our bathroom again :)

  7. kember says:

    Paul – THANK YOU! We just bought a Rattviken sink (2 of them) and Hemnes cabinets for our son’s bathroom… and the only instructions with the sink are how to caulk it to the cabinet. COMPLETELY unhelpful. So, you’ve saved my life… THANK YOU!

  8. Paul says:

    You are welcome.

  9. Ken Kmiec says:

    Just wondering if you would comment on how to include a garage disposal into the install.

  10. Cat Railey says:

    Thank you SO much for the awesome step by step and pics. Big help to us installing our sink. Kind regards. Cat

  11. Irene says:

    Thanks for the feedback, Cat! I hope your kitchen renovation is going well! Please feel free to come back and share some photos and any tips/tricks you may have come across <3

  12. Irene says:

    I’ll ask my husband if he can comment, I’d imagine this kit would still be of use!

  13. Becky says:

    Where did you install the dishwasher drain that normally goes on the sink? Since there is only one hole on the since for the faucet, we are not sure how that will work. We are also using the IKEA butcher block for counters.

  14. Irene says:

    Hey Becky,

    That is an excellent question, we never updated that part of the tutorial for the dishwasher! If you look at picture #9 labeled “Putting on the Purple Primer”, you can see where the drain from the dishwasher hooks up to. We can certainly get a better picture to make it more clear.

    Irene

  15. Paul says:

    Becky, I think you are talking about an air gap that some plumbing codes require you to intall. Our local plumbing code did not require us to use one. We only had to do a high loop. If you look at the last picture you can see the clear plastic hose that makes a loop. For you I would drill a hole for the air gap through the coutertop, behind the dishwasher. It shouldn’t be hard to make this hole since you have the butcher block. If you had stone coutertops you would have to have the counter installers drill it for you. Hope that helps.

  16. Joan says:

    A great help.We found your site looking for info. on connecting the sink strainer. The screw that comes with the strainer is too short. The longer screws are in with the sink gadgets. Makes no sense to do it that way but in case someone else thinks they are clueless. You aren`t, just look in the sink materials not the strainer bag. Ikea is clueless in this case. Now for the plumbing!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>